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Along with the gloomy weather, the transitional period between winter and early spring brings forth myriad skincare challenges. Think dry skin, dullness, and chapped lips, to name a few. Some products just don’t cut it in when the air is cold and dry, as they are either not hydrating enough or too harsh on already-compromised skin.
I speak to dermatologists and beauty experts for a living, and one piece of advice I hear time and again is to make subtle tweaks to your skincare routines around different times of year to adapt to your skin’s changing needs. So which products are they phasing out for the season, and which ones are they using instead? I’ve made it my mission to find out.
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Ahead, I spoke to a handful of dermatologists and skincare experts to find out the formulas they tend to sideline between winter and spring — and more importantly, the replacements they are bringing back into the fold. From swapping out foaming cleansers for gentler alternatives to ditching certain ingredients in favour of others, their recommendations will help keep your skin watered, balanced and glowing through February and beyond.
The following quotes have been edited for clarity and length.
Skip: Your foaming cleanser
Use instead: Uriage Xémose Cleansing Oil, £10.99
“I tend to skip foaming cleansers because they often contain harsher surfactants that can strip the skin of its natural oils — and the colder weather already dries out my skin. During the winter and months leading up to spring, the skin needs extra hydration and protection so I prefer to use more hydrating, gentle cleansers that help maintain my skin's barrier. Consider an oil-based option like the Uriage Xémose Cleansing Oil, £10.99. Oil-based cleansers help remove impurities and maintain the skin's moisture barrier while being gentle — without stripping essential oils, which is crucial during harsher winter months. Additionally, their nourishing properties help keep my skin soft and hydrated.” — Dr Derrick Phillips, consultant dermatologist
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Skip: Your face oil
Use instead: Chanel No. 1 De Chanel Revitalizing Serum, £128
“I’ve invested more time in my gua sha routine during the colder months, as it noticeably improves my skin’s firmness. While I used to rely on sunflower seed oil for its emollient benefits, my skin has become more sensitive, leading to breakouts. I've since moved on to the No. 1 De Chanel Revitalizing Serum, £128. Its lightweight formula — packed with moisturising glycerin — lends enough slip for my gua sha tool without tugging and dragging at my skin, or clogging my pores. The star ingredient is red camellia extract, an antioxidant that boosts the skin’s radiance and firmness. I pair it with the No. 1 De Chanel Massage Accessory, £55, a tool that boasts 85% bio-based materials and features a ridged side for gentle exfoliation. Together, they keep my skin glowy and plump. When I finish the routine with a dose of No. 1 De Chanel Red Camellia Cream, £98, my hydration levels are even more enhanced.” — Venus Wong, Refinery29 senior writer
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Skip: Your exfoliating scrub
Use instead: SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore Moisturiser, £150
“The colder weather makes skin dry, and abrasive scrubs with rough, physical exfoliants can irritate or strip away too much of the skin's natural oils. Instead, look for [milder cleansers] with hydrating ingredients like glycerin, aloe, or ceramides. These ingredients help maintain moisture balance while still effectively cleansing. I’ve found that [such] cleansers leave skin feeling soft, fresh and nourished, without the dry, tight sensation that harsher exfoliants can cause.
“This is [also] a time when skin needs extra hydration and protection. [Besides a mild cleanser] I'd recommend a richer, cream-based moisturiser to keep skin hydrated and prevent moisture loss. One of my top picks is SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore, £150. Not only is it hydrating, but it also helps replenish the skin’s natural lipids, which are often depleted in colder weather. It's rich without being too heavy or greasy, leaving the skin feeling soft and nourished.” — Dr Edel Woods, consultant dermatologist and founder of ORA Skin Clinic
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Skip: Your lightweight body lotion
Use instead: La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+M, £25
“I tend to skip lightweight body lotions in the colder months, as the formulation feels too light. My legs get particularly dry and wearing tights worsens this. I replace my body lotion with La Roche-Posay Lipikar Baume AP+M, £25. I don’t like anything that feels too heavy or sticky, and this one still melts into my skin, which feels better hydrated. It combines humectants (like glycerin, which draws in moisture), with emollients (such as shea butter) to soften the skin. There are also prebiotics to balance the microbiome of the skin barrier [the outermost layer of skin] so that it hydrates my body effectively.” — Dr Ellie Rashid, consultant dermatologist and pro medical director of Klira
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Skip: Your lip balm
“My lips always bear the brunt of the changing weather. You might instinctively reach for lip balm, but I need something a little stronger to tackle flaky skin — otherwise, I’ll end up picking at it. Enter: glycolic acid. This potent alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) is an excellent exfoliator, effortlessly sweeping away dry, peeling skin. I recently had the chance to try dermatologist Dr. Idriss’ Barrier Baste Lip Peel, which harnesses the power of glycolic acid.
“Unfortunately, it’s not yet available in the UK, but I’ve found an effective alternative. In the past, I’ve used The Ordinary 7% Glycolic Acid Exfoliating Toner, £7.70, on a cotton swab, followed by a rich moisturiser — something substantial like La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5, £10.90, — and the results have been impressive. Dr Idriss calls this method “lip basting”, and it’s a simple yet game-changing way to step up your lip care routine during transitional weather.” — Jacqueline Kilikita, Refinery29 beauty director
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Skip: Your sulphate face wash
“Foaming cleansers, especially those with sulphates like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), can be too harsh in the colder months. While they effectively remove oil and debris, they also strip away essential lipids, leaving the skin dry, tight and more prone to irritation — especially when the skin barrier is already compromised. For my patients with more sensitive skin types, I recommend the Avène Tolerance Control Extremely Gentle Cleanser, £15.95. This ultra-mild, creamy cleanser is soap-free, fragrance-free and formulated with minimal ingredients to support the skin’s natural barrier. It relies on Avène’s signature thermal spring water and a milky, lotion-like texture to cleanse without disrupting hydration. It’s perfect for winter and early spring, especially for dry, sensitive or reactive skin.” — Dr Ashley Magovern, consultant dermatologist and Dermstore medical advisory board member
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Alternatively, use: iS Clinical Cleansing Complex, £48
“I recommend the iS Clinical Cleansing Complex, £48, to patients with oily or acne-prone skin. This gel-based cleanser is gentle but deeply cleans the skin without disrupting its natural moisture balance. It contains antioxidants and mild resurfacing ingredients, such as white willow bark (a natural form of salicylic acid), which help with congestion without overdrying. This cleanser works well for all skin types, including sensitive skin.” — Dr Ashley Magovern, consultant dermatologist and Dermstore medical advisory board member
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Skip: Your petroleum jelly ointment
Use instead: A hand cream with ceramides and urea, like Eucerin Urea Repair Plus 5% Hand Cream, £8.48
“I wouldn’t recommend applying just petroleum jelly on the hands, since it’s an occlusive [an ingredient that forms a protective layer on the skin but isn’t particularly moisturising when used on its own]. If your hands are very dry, you ideally need to have a moisturiser with ceramides to hydrate the skin from within. [Ceramides are lipids, or fat molecules, that make up your skin’s natural barrier and help retain moisture, keeping the skin smooth, plump and hydrated.] I’d also suggest looking for a hand cream with urea, which helps remove the dead skin cell build-up and further draws water into the skin for hydration.” — Dr Zainab Laftah, consultant dermatologist & British Skin Foundation spokesperson
Based on Dr Laftah’s advice, we recommend trying Eucerin Urea Repair Plus 5% Hand Cream, £8.48. It’s rich in both urea and ceramides and is adored for its ability to alleviate cracks and flakiness on the hands, especially for people with contact dermatitis. If you really want to lock that moisture in, that’s when sealing your hand cream with a top layer of a petroleum jelly product, like Vaseline, can come in: This technique is also known as ‘hand slugging’.
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